Setting the Stage...
Disclaimer: This is the longest recount of a trip you might read that hasn't been turned into a full-length novel. I'd advise skimming through to the photos or places you find interesting, you don't need to read it from start to finish ๏ผunless you're a little crazy, like me. ๐
Come along with me as I recount my debut journey through China, guided by my partner who dished out all the insider tips for exploring a selection of the MANY cities that should undoubtedly find a spot on your bucket list.
Picture this: the breathtaking panorama from The Bund of the Shanghai Tower by the Hangpu River with the accompanying city skyline; the enchanting West Lake, a natural wonder that left us in awe (with a Starbucks never too far away, for that extra touch of comfort). The contrast of tradition and innovation is woven into the very fabric of these cities, with each turn offering a fresh page of history and every hidden lane-way a portal to the past.
Ready to dive into the details of our expedition, where every twist and turn reveals a chapter in the captivating story of China? Let's embark on this story together! ๐
Shanghai (2 Days)
Our first stop along the east side of China! We arrived at Century Park, the biggest park in Shanghai measuring in at 350 acres and built in just four years between 1996-2000. Shrouded in an enclave of tall residential buildings, you almost feel like you're in the Shanghai equivalent of Central Park. ๐
Here you'll see me standing beside the winding Zhangjia River which connects to the famous 113km Huangpu River and runs through most of Shanghai.
Century Park offers more than just a river ๏ผ it features sizable forest areas, lawns and a serene lake to get away from the busy streets.
Wukang Mansion
Wukang Mansion also known as Normandie Apartments, is a 20th century cultural blend of Chinese and Western architectural styles located in the famous French Concession area of Shanghai.
Originally built in 1924, the historic structure displays intricate detailing and a distinctive triangular shape you might expect to see in New York when stumbling across the Flatiron Building.
Site of the First National Congress of the Communist Party
This is the Site of the First National Congress of the Communist Party, where in 1921, renowned figures like Mao Zedong gathered in this meticulously preserved Shikumen-style building. Here, they laid the groundwork for the Chinese Communist Party (CCP), shaping its revolutionary policies that would significantly impact the course of Chinese history.
After taking in all that history though, we took an intermission and grabbed ourselves some ice-cream from Venchi! A famous Italian chocolatier selling everything your sweet tooth can handle. I'm a sucker for waffle cones, let alone when it's paired with a honeycomb crumb and chocolate coated top... I was weak in the knees, and couldn't say no. ๐
Chenghuang Miao (Shanghai's City God Temple) & Yu Garden
The majestic and profound Shanghai's City God Temple as a first time visitor blew me away with the traditional and distinctive Chinese architecture, resonating with Shanghai's rich history and spiritual heritage.
This temple is dedicated to the three gods Huo Guang, Qin Yubo and Chen Huacheng of which were all high ranking officials and immortalized in this tribute to their sacrifice and service.
Our first view of the temple from the outside, on the left is a long pedestrian street filled with stalls you can fill up with traditional Chinese BBQ'd snacks, bubble tea and various other small treats to keep you exploring the winding passages inside the temple grounds.
We came here just as they were starting to prepare for the Chinese New Year, that's why you can observe many dragons lurking around and fish adorned on the embellishments of each temple floor from the exterior.
The square of Chenghuang Miao. You'll find lots of little shops as-well as small and discrete tea-shops, restaurants and small areas for praying to various deities where people will bring offerings in the hope of good fortune, luck in their relationships or peace.
Moving into the inner area we find the main temple which has been a Taoist center since it was handed over to the Shanghai Taoist Association in 1951. You'll encounter lots of people coming here to pray with incense in hand. We followed suite, so here's hoping good fortunate comes my way! ๐
While walking around we were fortunate enough to encounter some of the resident Taoist priests conducting their worship.
Turning the corner, we entered the classical style Yu Garden , a masterpiece originally crafted in the Ming Dynasty it invokes a sense of peace and serenity as you pass through the ornate pavilions, lush courtyards and become captivated by the beautiful water features ๏ผ from serene ponds to gracefully flowing streams.
Coming from Melbourne gardens to the meticulously crafted Yu Garden, bleeding with history, one could really spend their entire day here. Yet, with so much more to see, it's time to move to the next destination!
We arrive back into the main center of the temple grounds, surrounded by restaurants, the ornately deigned buildings and a slightly different scene with the night-time ambience... It's leaving us a bit... hungry... So we headed over to Nanxiang to get our dumpling fix!
Nanxiang was awarded the Bib Gourmand award by Michelin, and fully endorsed by my partner ๏ผ I could hardly say no, and neither could my stomach.
We enjoyed a comically over-sized crab soup dumpling, which was delicious! Just... Not so easy to eat for a traveler such as myself... ๐ซฃ
After our hearty meal we ventured outside, where before we could see the lights radiating into the third floor of the restaurant, we were now greeted by a crowd of people and a masterfully crafted and delicate lanterns display. At this point I was really getting in the Chinese New Year spirit ๐ฅณ
But it couldn't last forever, we were tired after a long day and a big feast! One final parting photo of the City God Temple.
Nanjing Road
Nanjing Road, the lively heart of Shanghai serves as the bustling playground for urban exploration, shopping or just a bit of harmless sight seeing ๏ผ just stay on your toes in-case someone invites you back to their tea shop, or tries to sell you some "genuine" designer labels ๐
Surrounded by vibrant neon lights, and a near endless array of shops you're taken aback by the blend of tradition and innovation that Shanghai offers. There's a reason it's known as the one of the world's busiest shopping streets. Look out Chapel street!
We of course stopped at a corner-side Dim Sum shop called Shen Dacheng that also serves mochi-style snacks, my motto is: "If it's busy with the locals, then it's good enough for me!" ๐คฃ
It's amazing that this shop has been running since 1875, over nearly 150 years! We snatched a few of the long white mochi snacks in the back and carried on our way down Nanjing Road.
Entering into the main shopping district of Nanjing Road we're met by a full moon hovering over the rooftops. When walking between the huge buildings, you feel like the rest of the world becomes so small ๐
The Bund & Oriental Pearl Tower
The Bund is a charming place enriched by the Arc Deco and neoclassical buildings lining waterfront promenade that echo back to Shanghai's colonial past.
One such building is the Custom House sitting a stones throw away from the waterfront. Built in 1927, it is seen as one of the symbols of The Bund and Shanghai and still operates as a customs house today.
Across the Huangpu river you are met by the picturesque Pudong skyline, with iconic skyscrapers like the Oriental Pearl Tower or the Shanghai Tower that make it feel like you've been pulled into someones desktop wallpaper.
Disneyland (Shanghai)
With our adventure through most of Shanghai now coming to a close, we needed to visit somewhere a little magical... So today we set our sights on Disneyland.
My first time at Disneyland and I'm greeted by none other than Donald Duck! Though, with an ominous foggy backdrop getting a good view of the castle might have turned out to be a challenge.
Making it through the front gate relatively unscathed (scanning in with my Passport, and a regrettably weird looking mug shot saved to their system), we get our first glimpse of the entrance into the main part of the park. Not a lot of blue skies, but at-least I can still spot Mickey on the clock!
The Christmas decorations were still in full swing, and the Christmas tree was emanating the festive spirit. The morning we first got to see the castle wasn't the best in terms of visibility, but we could still feel a bit of that Disney magic nonetheless.
By the time we had made our way over into the Pirates of the Caribbean themed area of the park, it actually cleared up quite a bit! Just a shame we're, so... so... far away. We got a little lagoon and a cool ship in the shot though! I even got to walk on it, and...
Well... I lost a leg. At-least that's what my partner will tell you. ๐คฃ It's alright, it grew back! No boyfriends were hurt in the making of this Blog post ๐คซ
If you were a 90's kid, you probably remember these guys! Say hello to Woody and Buzz Lightyear. Naturally, they're being towed around by Hamm and Slinky Dog, with Rex on the reigns. If only my toys were as lively as these guys! There were a few others like Mulan in this little parade, but I stan Buzz ๐
The first adrenaline pumping ride we went on was this TRON Coaster ride. I remember watching the movie when it first came out, featuring the Daft Punk sound track, so even waiting in-line was a blast for me ๐ถ
An image worth 180 minutes. That's right, we waited in-line to enter the newly opened Zootopia area of the park for three hours. If you thought I was stubborn before, let it be known that I will not leave a line I have voluntarily entered if I've waited longer than 20 minutes ๐คญ
But in all seriousness, it was cool! I had seen the movie, but I wasn't entranced by the story, it was the design of the area that left me in awe. Seeing animals running around a literal concrete jungle was more than a little entertaining, even for this 28 year old bloke from Australia.
The man behind the camera making a surprise appearance... And the partner peacing out as we head over to the next spot on the map โ๏ธ
After heading out from the Zootopia area we got a bit of a closer look at the Disneyland castle up close, at night. Lit up by the lights, it makes you realise just how magical it can be. Of course, there's a restaurant so you can eat inside the castle (if you're willing to dish out for the Disneyland fine dining experience).
You can also just go up the inner stairs and say howdy to Snow White and the Seven Dwarves in a little mini-attraction that walks through the story from start to finish, well the abridged version anyway ๐
On our way back to the main area for some dinner we ran into another parade, this time with the "Winter Magic" theme. And it was definitely Winter because you could see your breath leaving your body ๐ฅถ
Finishing up our adventure in Disneyland, we caught the 9PM firework display. You couldn't see too much, but it was still a ball to watch! Wait... Are we sure this isn't Hogwarts? ๐ค๐งโโ๏ธ
Hangzhou (1 Day)
The West Lake & Leifeng Pagoda
Hangzhou for me was all about the perfect blend of history and flavor! You become soaked in the beauty of the West Lake, surrounded by green hills and ancient pagodas. Everywhere you turn, you are faced with a gorgeous garden or stunning architecture.
Entering into the site of the West Lake I wasn't sure what to expect... ๐ค But the shrubs and trees towering overhead set the stage for what was to come.
We were met by Qian Liu, who in his time from 852 AD was the founding king of Wuyue during the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period of China ๏ผ originally a warlord of the late Tang dynasty.
Exploring the surroundings, we seize a perfect moment to capture one of the many enchanting bridges that grace the West Lake, accompanied by the presence of a majestic bronze buffalo. This derives from the age-old legend that has bestowed upon the West Lake the moniker of the Golden Buffalo Lake. According to the tale, a mythical golden buffalo lay dormant at the lake's depths. Each time the lake dwindled, the buffalo would emerge, spouting water until it had filled once more.
In a bid to gain favor with the emperor, local officials urged their community to drain the lake using waterwheels. As the lake's waters receded, the buffalo materialized. However, the officials, eager to capture it, were met with a startling twist. The buffalo, lifting its head in fury, emitted a torrent of water, instantly submerging them. Since that moment, the West Lake has remained abundant, and the elusive buffalo has remained hidden, except for its rare appearance in my photograph, of course. ๐
After enjoying a little bit of mysticism we head over to a small enchanting island hidden away, only accessible by a short ferry, with a quaint little pond placed in the center.
From this island you can see the famous Leifeng Pagoda and three small stone towers featured on the back of a ยฅ1 bill ๏ผ the fog was still lurking around as you can see, but still an amazing sight.
The stones are colloquially known as the three pools mirroring the moon (ไธๆฝญๅฐๆ, sฤntรกnyรฌnyuรจ), each have space for candles and laterns to be lit within them on autumn nights so that they can reflect out onto the waters surface ๏ผ representing the "three moons".
Hello! ๐๐คฃ My partner waving to me as I stand there for a second wondering why there's an escalator outside. That was definitely a first for me... ๐ค But onwards! Our first close-up look at Leifeng Pagoda.
Leifeng Pagoda in Hangzhou isn't just a tower; it has a rich history dating back to its construction in 977 AD. Legend tells of its purpose to imprison Madame White Snake, a spirit in love with the human Xu Xian. Despite collapsing in 1924 in the face of numerous reconstructions and repairs, the pagoda had again risen again on top of the old ruins, with the assistance of modern technology in October of 1999. This gave new meaning to the enduring spirit of the love story, as it now stands, once again, by the West Lake.
Adding a mystical layer, locals once believed in the special powers of the pagoda's bricks. People stole them, grinding the bricks into powder, hoping for protection from illness and miscarriages, which had ultimately lead to the collapse of the ancient pagoda.
In the distance you can spot another temple sitting high on-top of a hill surrounded by the juxtaposition of city, nature and small residential areas.
Our final West Lake escapade brought us to Grandma's Home, where we wrapped up the day with a delightful dinner! One standout dish was the intriguing lotus root creation โ a bit sweet, incredibly tender, and adorned with dainty flower petals. I almost felt terrible eating it, but every bite was absolutely worth it. ๐คฃ
Guangzhou (3 Days)
As we touched down in my partner's home city of Guangzhou after a short train ride, we were off to meet some of her friends and get my fix of Yum Cha for lunch to fill my belly.
We met them at Panyu Hotel, which in the classical Cantonese style is embellished with many overhanging trees, water features and Koi fish, adding to the relaxing ambience around the restaurant.
If you haven't eaten Chinese food with me before, you know that when I order, Pork Buns are always near the top of my list ๏ผ and today was no exception. ๐ We ate at the Li Yuan Hall which was on the first floor, but there are nineteen halls total. ๐คฏ I even tried some sweet chili chicken feet, they were pretty good, but I'm not sure this westerner can put up with the effort required to get to the eating part... ๐
One last present before saying wrapping up lunch๏ผone of my partners friends made us a chestnut cake! It tasted as good as it looked. ๐ We often don't get to have chestnuts in Australia, the texture was fluffy and the taste not too sweet. I may have turned into a chestnut believer. ๐๐
Canton Tower
Canton Tower set against the blue sky, an architectural masterpiece gracing Guangzhou's skyline. We hadn't seen blue in the sky for what felt like an eternity!
Appreciating its height is a challenge until you ascend to the very top. Construction concluded in 2010, marking the completion of its towering structure, encompassing a total of 112 floors!
In the evening, the Pearl River lights up with the vibrant glows of neon lights from passing ferries, and lights from the illuminating digital billboards lining the riverbank.
On our way down from Canton tower, we decide to go for a walk along the Pearl River and get a better view of the Liede Bridge, a 4.3km suspension bridge connecting Pazhou Island in Haizhu District with Tianhe District, originally opened in 2009.
On our way back to our hotel we get one last final look at Canton Tower, and I get the perfect shot in-front of the "I โค๏ธ GZ" sign. ๐
One last photo for the road! Or rather... bridge? They sure do love gold over there ๐ค Time to head home. ๐
Baomo Yuan (Cantonese Garden)
Today being a public holiday in China, we set out to Baomo Yuan with family for the day, to explore one of the bigger Cantonese style gardens we've visited on our trip.
At the entrance stands a towering wall crafted from 30,000 dark bricks, serving as a captivating "screen wall" that adds an air of mystery, preventing visitors from peering into the garden grounds, before turning the corner.
Adorning the facade are over 600 meticulously carved elements, including birds, insects, flowers, and iconic symbols like phoenixes, pheasants, dragonflies, as well as representations of pine, bamboo, willow, and peony.
Our first sight of the garden is a pond filled with Koi fish, accompanied by a vacant boat decorated with flowers and flowing fabric. Similar to many of the other areas in the garden, you can feed the fish ๏ผ for a price! Additionally, you can also ride one of the boats here on a tour, but we didn't set aside time to have a leisurely cruise around the garden.
Shift your gaze to the right, and you'll discover a quaint pavilion nestled in the distance, surrounded by lush greenery featuring stalactites. Interestingly, these formations were relocated from a nearby cave system, lending a unique contrast to the garden. Whether natural or transplanted, they contribute a fascinating element to the overall charm of the scenery.
As we make our way around, we find an allegedly 1000 year old Banyan tree. They're known to be a symbol of life, longevity and immortality. Fans of Avatar: the Last Airbender, might recognise it as the iconic Banyan-grove Tree.
Encountering more stalactites, this time on the opposite side from our initial sighting, we get an up-close view of the pavilion from a different perspective. Wander through the secluded area where a smaller pavilion is tucked away, and you'll find yourself slightly elevated. Here, near a gentle waterfall, you can overlook the garden from a unique angle, casting a different light on your surroundings.
Here we found ourselves overlooking one of the Buddhist statues scattered around the garden, inviting passersby to pause and reflect, surrounded by an expansive pond that mirrors its calm and serene form. It's poetic that such a form would be reflected onto a similarly calm and serene pond.
Strolling further, we found ourselves nestled in a rose garden, adorned with a diverse array of rose varieties. The backdrop of Banyan trees gave me a great chance to practice some more photography. It was definitely a popular spot, with lots of visitors walking around, looking for the perfect spot to take a selfie!
Baomo Yuan is well known for offering visitors a chance to catch their own fish. Specially designated pools offer a unique fishing experience โ armed with a net, your reflexes will be put to the test as you try to catch yourself a slippery prize to bring home. We didn't give this a shot, as I don't think they would be up the for journey home. ๐
Adding a bit of novelty, there was also what at first glance looked like arcade machines. For a small price, you can gamify the art of fishing, perhaps walking with more fish than you would otherwise be able to catch with a more traditional small net. ๐
The garden even has a small dedicated area just for turtles. In some places around the garden you can buy baby turtles, and from what I've heard some people will bring them here to be released in the hopes that it will bring good luck. Maybe that's why there's so many of them! ๐ค
It was around the late afternoon at this point, we stopped by one of the small shops and grabbed ourselves some ice-cream. I went for the stock-standard vanilla and chocolate, while my partner opted for mango peach. Although, if I'm being completed honest, I just liked the look of the Koi fish... ๐
The Zidai Bridge (on the left) is a nine-arch white stone bridge. It spans the Qingping lake, with thirty stone sculptures from historical novels placed on-top the railings.
On the right is the Zilai Memorial Arch located in the center of the garden, built with white stone and embedded with twelve animals representing the Chinese lunar years as-well as images of the Eight Immortals in Taoism, all in granite. The arch symbolizes the nobility of incorruptible officials.
Another small pond surrounding a tea shop where you can relax for a while and collect your energy. In the foreground you can see a crane, as-well as a turtle with a snake on its back.
The significance of this display is a symbolization of mutual support and cooperation, signifying a harmonious relationship between opposing forces. There's a link to longevity, wisdom and protection, conveying the belief of a balanced coexistence and contributing to a prosperous and enduring life.
Captured in this image is a breathtaking view of Along the River During the Qingmin Festival, portraying a scene from Bianliang, the capital of Northern Song (modern-day Kaifeng in Henan Province). The focal point is a massive mural, stretching an impressive 63 meters in length and 7 meters in widthโ100 times the size of the original painting created by Zhang Zeduan in the Song Dynasty (960-1127 AD).
The mural intricately details the bustling city life with 1648 figures, offering a vivid reflection of the prosperous trade in China during that era. This visual narrative not only showcases historical significance but also provides a glimpse into life during the Qingming Festival in Bianliang.
Shamian Island
On our next day in Guangzhou, we head over to Shamian Island, a charming enclave separated by a bridge from the rest of the province. It's a historical island, steeped in colonial influence and European-style architecture. It was once divided between the British and French concessions (80% British & 20% french), until it was returned to Chinese administration in 1943, creating a unique blend of Western and Chinese elements.
We make our way around the outskirts of the island, strolling along the narrow streets and a canopy of overhanging trees lining the borders of the island. There's a curious mix of residential and now small business buildings along the roads, with some remnants of its historical past marked by either the historic architecture, or signage that sits out the front of otherwise unassuming facades.
One of the local cats having a nap. ๐ธ
There's a few churches located on Shamian Island, the one pictured being Shamian Christian Church which had been built by the Church of England in 1865 for British expatriates, located in the British Concession.
Naturally, the French Concession area of the island also had its own, Our Lady of Lourdes Chapel, which has been restored and was competed in 1892.
As you explore the island, you'll stumble upon markers narrating its colonial history, each accompanied by bronze statues capturing snapshots of days gone by. How fortunate we are to have email. ๐
The Bank of Taiwan building, although no longer functioning as an active bank, serves as reminder of the complex history and international influences that shaped the island during its service as a strategic port for foreign trade. Today, many of these buildings now serve as government office buildings, or residential apartments.
Another similarly large building, close to the waterfront, likely serving as housing for residents living on Shamian island. Historically, prior to 1943, this would have served as a factory building. Note on the left side of the building, you can observe a gate that would have been used for transporting goods to the nearby ports located on the bank Pearl River bank.
Located in the French concession we found this large mansion, it appeared to be some sort of Hostel or club, but was being restored when we were there, so there's still some mystery around this one.
At the heart of the island we found one of the main attractions, "Friendship Garden". It's a place you can unwind, relax and enjoy some of surrounding greenery, with fountains and bronze statues meticulously placed along your path.
Between visitors taking photos, taking in all the lush greenery and flowers throughout the garden, we spot two bronze statues of early British colonialists stuck in time, playing their instruments in a crowd of people.
My partner also enjoying some of the scenery and showing off her new Winnie-the-Pooh shoulder bag that she got in Shanghai Disneyland. ๐ค
Yong Qing Fang (The Museum of Cantonese Opera Art)
Built in 1931, this traditional and historical Cantonese Opera Theater is a time capsule of artistry and cultural heritage that has existed in Guangzhou for nearly a century with the help of continued restoration and maintenance since the original constructed was completed.
This theater is where Bruce Lee's father Lee Hoi-cheun had performed as a Cantonese opera actor.
As we walked through the museum grounds, we were able to come just in time to catch a traditional Cantonese opera performance. The stage was set against the kind of lush greenery, water features and ponds that you would come to expect of a Cantonese style garden. Though, a bit different from the previous garden we visited, this was much more urban, with tall buildings surrounding you in every direction.
Tracing a path around the museum grounds that are shrouded by the walls surrounding it, we saw more of the traditional flora and fauna as-well as rock formations that submerge you in Guangzhou's rich culture and history. You almost feel as if you've been transported back to 1931, if it weren't for the modern buildings reminding you that you haven't left 2024.
From a higher level floor inside the museum you can over-see a tea house by the pond where you could kick back and relax while taking in the performance on stage.
Standing outside the Opera Museum, you're transported to what feels like a traditional Chinese palace, an exclusive realm reserved for Cantonese Opera royalty. ๐ฅธ
The architecture captivates with its meticulous detailing, from the grand scale of the building to the ornate roofing. Encountering such craftsmanship is a rarity in the more urban landscapes of Guangzhou, making it a unique and awe-inspiring experience.
Bruce Lee's Ancestral Home (No. 13, Yongqing 1st Lane)
Making our way down the laneways of Enning Road, located behind the Opera Museum, we arrive at what is (with some debate) said to be Bruce Lee's ancestral home, where his father Lee Hoi-cheun lived for for some time with his wife and son (Bruce) while continuing his acting career.
Bruce Lee was as much a philosopher as he was a martial artist practitioner. Before MMA was popularized, he created what would then be the style of Jeet Kune Do.
With this it was also an amalgamation of Zen Buddhist and Taoist philosophies, this influence becomes clear as you encounter this plaque that is placed on your path as you walk towards the home. A reminder to be focused on the things that matter, and to never restrict yourself to the point you become in-flexible. He always placed a great importance on be adaptable, both in his style of fighting, and ways of thinking.
Just outside the front door we're met with the legendary martial artists Ip Man and Bruce Lee practicing Wing Chun with one another, a familiar scene if you've watched the Ip Man films featuring Donnie Yen.
The home features a front door crafted from black lacquered wood, while the structure itself incorporates brick walls, wooden beams, and pillars. Inside, intricate wood carvings are in line with the traditional Xiguan Shikumen style.
In terms of layout, a small courtyard welcomes you at the entrance, followed by a living room and a second courtyard housing the kitchen and back gate.
Aligned with the Shikumen architectural tradition, the house spans three floors, with the second and third boasting individual balconies. The core principle of this style emphasizes openness, achieved through tall roofs, room-dividing screens, and a focus on optimal ventilation and natural light. The color scheme adheres to customary choices, with red symbolizing good fortune and black representing both protection and a connection to water.
A stairway to heaven so to speak... ๐ค Very steep, with the second and third floors leading to the balconies where you can enjoy some fresh air away from the central courtyard.
It was a bit emptier than I was expecting, and it did look like it was in need of some maintenance, but it was still cool to check out a traditional Shikumen style home โ it really was like walking into a different world. A bit of a departure from the faux federation home I grew up in.
Quick Family Meal...
Before leaving Guangzhou, we had one final dinner with my partners family! Everything from sashimi, scallops, lobster, pigeon and crumbed fried beef... I tried a bit of everything but fair to say I was a fan of the beef with its zesty orange juice sauce ๐
See you next time Guangzhou! ๐
Hong Kong (3 Days)
Our last stop on our journey was over to Hong Kong by high-speed rail. Before coming over here, I had always heard about the small narrow streets, and restaurants hidden away in small alleyways that might make you feel slightly claustrophobic, but with food that would be worth dying for.
The visual of an expansive skyline, split down the middle by Victoria Harbor was something I've always wanted to see with my own two eyes.
We started the trip by checking into our tiny 11 square meter hotel room which we would be staying in for the next two nights. Great if you love to get nice and cosy! ๐
Lung Fu Shan Morning Trail
The first thing on our agenda in Hong Kong was heading up the Lung Fu Shan Morning Trail that was looking the North Western part of Hong Kong, it was a popular little spot and good excuse to stretch the legs and burn off some of the food we had been eating for the last week. ๐ซ
We cut through the University of Hong Kong to make our way up steep hills, where we found the starting point for the hike that would give us some good opportunities to get a better look at Hong Kong from up high.
Overlooking the skyline of North West Hong Kong, you can see the rolling hills surrounding the city, as-well the International Commerce Centre, a colossal 108-storey skyscraper, that comes alive at night. It is the only building in Hong Kong that is over 100-storeys, and is the 10th tallest building in the world, measured by number of floors.
A closer look at the International Commerce Centre as it towers over West Kowloon and the nearby Hong Kong Palace Museum.
At night the vibrant neon lights of ships docked along the waterfront, and mix of white and orange hues from residential and commercial buildings add to the picturesque view of the cities skyline.
In the foreground, you can see the next two tallest buildings behind the International Commerce Centre, the Central Plaza building on the left, and the International Finance Centre building on the right.
The areas they stand today is on land that had been reclaimed from Victoria Harbour in the 1970's. To put it into perspective, the Central Plaza building was the tallest building in Asia from 1992 until 1996, until the Shun Hing Square was built in Shenzhen, neighboring Hong Kong.
The International Commerce Centre at night puts on a show with various patterns and images projected from the side of the building out to the rest of city. I had to hunker down for quite a while to grab this shot, as it rotates through around 10 combinations of images, and it was a bit of a chilly night! But enduring the chills were worth the wait. ๐ฅถ
With the hike up finished we picked up some bubble tea and an egg waffle on Victoria Peak, egg waffles are very popular in Hong Kong and Macau. We got them from the little shopping area that connects up with the Peak Tower where you can get a first class view of the city. It was a bit too busy for our liking though, so we stuck to the paths on the trail.
On the way down we get one last shot of the skyline near the trail, admiring the density of buildings that make up the Hong Kong skyline. This was our last sight for the night, before we squeezed ourselves back into the tiny little hotel room. ๐๐ฆ
Ngong Ping Village (Ngong Ping Big Buddha & Po Lin Monastery)
For our final full day in Hong Kong, we head over to Lantau Island where we need to reach Ngong Ping Village by cable car.
Heading up to Ngong Ping Village aboard one of the Ngong Ping 360 cable cars, you get a great aerial view of [Tung Chung] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tung_Chung) where the tall buildings almost look out of place as they're wedged between the calm coast line and the mountains that make even the sparse, large residential buildings look small.
As you journey further through the hills of Lantau, you'll catch sight of the Hong Kong-Zhuhai-Macau Bridge and the man-made island that links Hong Kong and Macau to Zhuhai through an extensive undersea tunnel. This bridge, connecting major cities in the Pearl River Delta region of China, holds the distinction of being both the longest sea crossing and the lengthiest open-sea fixed link in the world.
Finally arriving in the village you can spot a glimpse of the Big Buddha that immediately catches your attention as you touch down here. Like clockwork, we pick up some more bubble tea to fuel our day around the area, while checking out some of the surrounding gift shops. ๐ง
Making our way further up we see signs warning you about the local wild Ox that make their way around the area, advising to avoid touching them. They were fairly friendly and definitely weren't shy about getting their photos taken though. ๐ธ๐
The stairs to the bronze statue equate to 268 in total, with the size of the actual Buddha being 34 m (112 ft) in height and weighing in at over 250 metric tons. Contrasting it with the scale of visitors walking up each flight of stairs makes you realise the magnitude of such a monument. But we're not waking our way up to the top just yet, we have one stop to make first.
After admiring the giant bronze statue of the Buddha from a distance, we decide to investigate Po Lin Monastery first. Adorned with lanterns outside the entrance, and throughout the temple grounds, the smell of incense catches you and pulls you in. The area surrounded by not much other than trees and a few small shops for tourists, the monastery stands out, peaking its head out from above the canopy.
Strolling through the temple grounds, we come across the main shrine hall, originally completed in 1970. If you look closely through the doorways, you can catch glimpses of one of three Buddhas gracing the space: Buddha Amitฤbha, Buddha Bhaisajyaguru, and Buddha Shakyamuni โ the latter being the Chinese name for Buddha.
Continuing our exploration around the rear of the main shrine hall, we encounter The Grand Hall of Ten Thousand Buddhas. While access inside this three-story temple is restricted, we take a moment to quietly appreciate the intricate details and classical Song dynasty architecture. Functioning primarily as a meditation hall, it serves various other purposes, including exhibitions, a shrine, and a scripture library.
The golden Buddhas immediately capture our attention, glistening in gold with contrasting black hair. And yet, the thought lingers โ where might the other 9,995 be hiding? ๐ง
With the morning coming to a close we head to the top of the Big Buddha, where he sits atop his lotus throne on a three-platform altar. The construction concluded on October 13, 1989, with the placement of the final bronze piece.
The right hand is uplifted, symbolizing the removal of affliction, while the left hand rests on his lap in a gesture of generosity. The base upon which it sits is modeled after a similar one located at the Temple of Heaven in Beijing.
Inside we found three different floors, each filled with Buddhist relics, scriptures and shrines๏ผthough photography inside the Buddha was prohibited. It's on the third floor that you can get a bit closer to him, overlooking the rest of the surrounding area.
From the base of the Big Buddha, the expansive view unfolds over the towering trees, offering a broader perspective of the surrounding mountains that embrace Ngong Ping village. This panoramic scene provides insight into the calm and secluded lifestyle sought by many monks who come here for meditation and worship.
Tai O Fisherman Village
For our next trip located near Ngong Ping Village, we take a bus ride over to the neighbouring Tai O Fishmerman Village. The ride there was interesting, twisting and swerving through narrow roads in a long passenger bus, the driver making me at times sweat as he would brush up against some of the branches from the surrounding trees perching over the road. It felt like it could turn into a scene from Final Destination at any second. ๐
Fortunately, we arrived in one piece! Our first view of Tai O Village, Hong Kong's oldest fishing village; many stilted houses and buildings all of which looking like they've been here for the last 50 years or more. In some ways it reminds me of the time I spent growing up in Gippsland, where small towns lined the waterfront, and though it's not as busy as the city, you get a feel for the intimate connections people who live here have with each other.
The town itself is at-least three centuries old, having been occupied briefly by the Portuguese in the 16th Century, until they were eventually defeated and the town was reclaimed. Stories have it that it was commonly used as a base of operating for smuggling and pirating, and it definitely gives off those vibes. ๐ดโโ ๏ธ
A lonely fisherman going about his daily routine. The expansive open ocean makes you contemplate just many fish there might be hidden away, waiting to be caught. ๐ค I hope he got a good haul that day! ๐๐
Cutting through the town center you can see dried fish strung up, the smell permeating through the air with each step, it hard to escape! ๐ซข At-least one restaurant is nestled here, but it's predominantly local small shops selling various ranges of fish and small knick-knacks.
I will mention though, they did have a really delicious and juicy mango mochi snack. If you make your way here, highly recommended... If you can find it! ๐
Snow White and the Seven Dwarves on display in one of the narrow alleys. Looks like they've been hung out to dry ๏ผ if you're a prince charming in the area, inquire with within about Snow White needing a new spouse! ๐
There's a trendy little store decked out with various lanterns and neon signs. While we didn't check out the inside, I can appreciate the unique decor โ definitely a unique little spot compared to the more "ordinary" shops in the area. โ๏ธ
While traveling around we hopped onto one of the small tour boats you can cruise around the town in, getting a slightly unique perspective. Different sides of the town are connected by bridges over the waterfront, it's odd to think that the only thing holding them up are the stilts underneath them. Seeing a town standing over water isn't something that I had seen before coming here. How does the plumbing work? ๐ค Hmm...
Turning around you get to see the enormous mountains towering over this small little fishing village. When we were in Ngong Ping village, we were sitting slightly higher up so the scale didn't hit you as hard as when you descend down to the waterfront.
Heading out into the South China Sea you can watch the coast pass by, and in the distance I spot a little oriental pavilion in seemingly no-where๏ผhow strange.
While sightseeing we catch a glimpse of a Pink Dolphin going about its afternoon swim! It's a bit tricky to tell its pink hue from this distance, but rest assured these dolphins are local celebrities around Lantau Island.
Their numbers have been decreasing in recent years, some sources estimate a decline from around 158 in 2003 to about 40 in 2022. It's disheartening to hear, but hopefully, there are conservation efforts underway to ensure the preservation of these graceful and intelligent creatures in the future. ๐ฌ
Here we have some local fishermen setting up for the afternoon by the rocks just off-shore. It must be nice to leave your house, pick up a rod, and be ready to catch some lunch in just a few minutes. ๐ฃ
Losing our sea legs, we jump back on-to land and head towards the North end of the island that's mostly uninhabited with the exception of a few small shops and a few other facilities like a hospital/clinic and school.
Walking through here we run into an abandoned building, it looks almost like an old school that's been reclaimed by nature. Seeing how the Earth intertwines with man-made structures is always somewhat captivating. It's almost like an arc deco piece in its own right, except with no human intervention. ๐๏ธ๐ฟ
Further along the coast we find one of the locals drying some fish paste and prawns in the hot sun, likely to sell later at one of the village . โ๏ธ It really reminds you that you're walking through a fishing village โ not just the sight of it, but the smell too. ๐
As we make our way towards the end of the island and look behind us, with the sun starting its descent toward the Earth, the mountains looming tall over the village, tour boats continue to run like clockwork, on the lookout for more photogenic pink dolphins.
It was an immensely unique place to visit, in Melbourne we have many coastal side towns with fishing piers, but seldom do we see a village suspended over the ocean, seamlessly connected from one side to the other.
Victoria Harbour (Ferry)
As our Hong Kong adventure comes to a close, we spend our last night exploring the vibrant cityscape and harbour before heading back to Guangzhou. Hopping on the metro, we make our way towards the iconic Victoria Harbour.
This massive stretch of water separates Hong Kong in the south from the Kowloon Peninsula in the North. Its deep and sheltered waters are a key reason why this area has had such a large impact in international trade, commerce and its establishment as a British Colony in 1841.
As we arrive at Tsim Sha Tsui Ferry Pier we board one of the Star Ferries that patrol the harbour, we get to see the city from a different a different angle, and can spot the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre jutting out from the waterfront.
The HKCEC sits atop reclaimed land where it was constructed between 1985 to 1988, only taking four years in total to complete from the initial reclaiming of land, to the construction of the building itself.
A more distinct ferry appears on the harbour, as I write this I couldn't ID it as belonging to the Star Ferry fleet๏ผa ghost ship perhaps? ๐ป Off to the side we can see the Hong Kong Observation Wheel๏ผthis is the same one we could see making our way up to the top of Victoria Peak! Initially I mistook it for some sort of theme park. ๐คฆโโ๏ธ
The neon colors flowing out into the harbour from the surrounding lights are magical, makes me wish I lived in the city. Soon, Ash, soon... ๐คฃ
This time viewing the HKCEC from a bit further away, you can see the lights from surrounding buildings shooting into the air. You could nearly think that Godzilla would come stomping through any minute. ๐ฆ
Seeing the different types of boats driving around the harbour was a cool sight, all adorned with their own lights and at-least one with a party aboard, I can see they're still in the Christmas spirit early in January. ๐
We once again set our sea-legs aside and hop off to Central Pier 8, located near the Observation Wheel (which you can see sticking out), opposite Kowloon. There are 10 piers total on this side of the the harbour, all lining the same stretch of waterfront no more than a few meters apart.
Before heading off back to Tsim Sha Tsui for the night I spot Elon in the corner of my eye. ๐ค Looks like someone in Hong Kong is out to make some money from his Dogecoin empire. ๐คด
One Last Stop... ๐
Ok, ok... I'm getting there. ๐คฃ Before heading back to Australia we had to jump back over to Guangzhou as our flight was from Guangzhou Airport.
To send us on our way me and my partner had some Sichuan food at Ease (Yuexiu) with a few of her friends that live in her city. As is typical of Sichuan food it packed a little bit of a punch. I even got to have a dish I always crave, and order, back at home๏ผSichuan chicken! ๐ฅต
Heading Home ๐ซ
That's all for my first trip to China! There was a few details and bits and pieces left out, but I tried to keep everything that I thought either looked cool, or was a unique experience. All in all, it was an enormous effort to sift through over 3000 photos, edit a few hundred and put this final blog post together.
These are just a few of the stories that made the cut, so hope you enjoyed following me along into China, learned something new and might even considering adding it on-to your bucket list. ๐จ๐ณ
I'm hoping to have a bit more of a countryside trip next time around, so be sure to check back next year๏ผyou might get to see a Panda or two! ๐ผ
Or sooner if you want to learn about some trends in tech, or little tid-bits about web dev. ๐